Piola branches out.

Beloved readers,

As you may know already, I've left Chile - but I'm still writing. In particular, I will be writing about development issues as part of the Th!nk About It competition. My stuff is here.

See you there.

Chile elected a new president.

This post is also available in: French

pinera2.jpgI’m in Europe now; how I wish I could have witnessed the event!

The tragic earthquake in Haiti hit at about the same time, so the election was less present in the international news than it could have been. It’s quite a big deal, really. Whilst the European media loved commenting the “leftist wave” sweeping Latin America, Chile is now taking a very different route.

Piñera is a right-wing, billionaire entrepreneur that is often compared to Berlusconi for his steady tan, face-lifted grin, and big businesses. In particular, Piñera owns a chunk of LAN Chile (the country’s main airline company), the TV channel Chilevision and the football club Colo-Colo. As my friend Molly puts it, he’s “quintessentially the new Chilean man”. The epitome of ‘modernity’ and ‘achievement’ – or what many Chileans, enthused by his charisma, fortune, and ‘success’, believe that is.

I dislike and mistrust Piñera. But hey. He’s been elected in a fair, transparent and calm manner – big up for that. 51.6% of voters want him to run their country, and the other candidate (former Christian-democrat president Eduardo Frei) was a bit of an old joke. Too bad for the left; Chileans love Michelle Bachelet, who will hand over to Piñera in March. If she had had the constitutional right to run for a consecutive mandate, she would have stood high chances to be re-elected.

My Chilean beautician (how I miss you Marina!) loved to talk about politics in the midst of leg waxing. She often asked me ‘how things work in Europe’. She guessed the left would fare poorly in the first round, out of boredom after 20 years of the centre-left Concertación – but was convinced that Chileans wouldn’t elect Piñera in the second round. Not a man who befriended a party strongly linked with the Pinochet dictatorship. "The left may not be perfect, but we believe in democracy, and we have been marked by fear, torture and death," she asserted.

Marina was wrong. These were the first presidential elections since Pinochet died in 2006; maybe it is more acceptable to embrace the right now that his ghost stopped hovering. I have always thought of Chilean society as right-wing at heart, despite 20 years of left-ish rule. Looks like it’s just falling into place.

Shot: Sebastián Piñera by Diego Sepúlveda

Who decided that the North was up?

This post is also available in: French

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I was in Rio de Janeiro the other day (yes). It was shortly after the International Olympic Committee announced that the Cidade Maravilhosa would host the 2016 Summer Games - the first ever in South America. It made people merry, and rightly so. (Especially companies specialised in printing large banners like the one I photographed.)

Santiago de Chile could be a candidate for some fancy winter games, I thought. First-rate ski resorts in the Andes, good infrastructure and safety, reasonably reliable institutions, what else do you need? The world-class venues and facilities, you can improve or build later. You sure need a vision and a kick-ass project, which Santiago could also provide with political will, good planning and a talented team on board.

Oh, and you need winter in February. D'uh.

The summer games have already been hosted in the southern hemisphere and could be held in any country lucky enough to be warm year-round. But the winter olympics - together with their wealth of opportunities for "development", will stay in the rich hemisphere for ever.

The South is used to being "upside down" anyway. Upside down from where, though? Who decided what's up and what's down?

10 things you didn't know about Easter Island.

This post is also available in: French

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Or maybe you did, because you're a refined and cultured piola reader, but since I didn't know before flying there, I will assume you didn't either.

1. Easter Island, a.k.a. Rapa Nui, the most remote inhabited island on Earth, is located some 3700 km off the Chilean coast, and belongs to the Chilean Valparaiso region.

2. It's getting cheaper to go. Flights from Santiago cost from 230 euros return.

3. Food prices are understanbly very high on the island. Interestingly though, petrol, cigarettes and alcohol cost about the same as on the continent.

4. July 2010 is an expensive time to go. There will be a solar eclipse on the 11th and most hotels and places are already fully booked by, you know, people who are really really keen on standing in the shadow of the moon for 4 minutes 39 by some beautiful old statues on a Pacific Island. Mind you, if I had lots of thousands of dollars to spare, I'd think that's a very sweet way of spending them. Or I might go to the Tuomotu Archipielago (which will also get a good view) instead. Let's hope those 4 minutes 39 won't be cloudy, eh!

5. The moai (the famous big statues) date back to the XVIth century, they reckon. At the same time in Europe, we were more into Italian painting, flying machines and big castles. It is fascinating to think how distinct our cultures were then, and how (relatively) close they are now.

6. The Rapa Nui language is pretty much the same as the one spoken in Hawaii and Tahiti. "Only the Chilean took Rapa Nui, the Americans took Hawaii, and the French took Tahiti. But we're only one people," explained Jose (holder of a Chilean passport, but not Chilean, he made clear) after a quick skinny dipping session at Anakena beach. Amongst many other useful and beautiful words, I can now teach you: Iorana (hi / bye), Monire (monday) and Ahu (stone platform).

7. Non-Rapa Nui people cannot own land on the Island, whether they be Chilean hippies or greedy Russian hotel builders.

8. It's kind of difficult for Rapa Nui people to marry with another of the 4000-ish islanders, since it's forbidden by law to marry with your third cousin.

9. Kevin Costner produced a movie there in 1993. Two locals who took part in the shooting told me it's "you know, the usual Hollywood romance." Apparently dumbed down the subtleties of Easter Island culture and history for dramatic purposes, and didn't do dramatically much to boost the Island's tourism.

10. Rapa Nui musicians play 8-string flat ukuleles that look like electric guitars, only way cooler and sweeter. Only this one artist and his father make them, and if I behave they'll even make me one. THANK YOU!

Still alive.

This post is also available in: French

You may have noticed my posting has been minimal lately. Mostly, that's because I've been filled with beautiful, and at times overpowering emotions. They've kept my inner observer too busy exploring my feelings to note anything meaningful about the outside world.

Santiago is rainy. Chile watches football and keeps its breath until La Roja gets its ticket to the 2010 World Cup. The streets, cars and house windows are getting covered with Chilean flags in preparation for the national celebration on September 18th. The campaign for the presidential elections is running full steam.

So there. Here's some hand-picked Chilean music to make do for my lazy blogging. Nothing necessarily representative, just stuff I like and have put on repeat on my iPod throughout the months.

First off, some quality cumbia. If you're in Spain in November, check out Chico Trujillo on stage and get glowy. Then, my fav track of the Colectivo Etéreo's hip-hop album. They're huge fun on stage, and this video kicks ass. Third, a slightly kitschy, funky and danceable tune from Anita Tijoux. (See concert dates on her myspace - she's playing in Barcelona, Paris and Lausanne this month.) And last but definitely not least, the phenomenal singer-songwriter Camila Moreno. Esta va para mi amiga Kari.

Enjoy.


Chico Trujillo - Loca



Colectivo Etéreo - Avanzando



Anita Tijoux - Despabílate



Camila Moreno - Antes que

Public display of affection.

This post is also available in: French

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Captured on the streets of La Serena a couple of days ago. Sweet, uh?

How to be good at the Chilean till.

This post is also available in: French

charity_billIn Chilean supermarkets, the cashier always asks clients to make a small donation to charity. For instance: if she has to give you 817 pesos change, you'll donate 7 pesos to charity and get 810 pesos back. Most clients, myself included, agree to donating. Thus they avoid accumulating tiny coins in their purse, the supermarket's image gets a solidarity boost, and far down the line, maybe some hungry child will get a hot meal or something.

The process is far from transparent; some allege said companies benefit from hefty tax cuts thanks to donations THEIR CLIENTS made, and make good cash from the interests earned between the moment we give them our 7 pesos, and the end of the month when they write the charity cheque. Now, I don't know shit about the Chilean law and tax system, but I can see well enough with my ignorant eyes that not much is explained or reported to us, well-meaning donators.

Also, I'm not so happy to give to a Catholic charity. Sure enough, Hogar de Cristo's website tells me my pesos "are in good hands", but I'd rather donate them to non-religious good hands. Sadly, I'm too lazy to do so. That's precisely why this system of passive "solidarity" is so clever and convenient: it turns lazy arses like me in generous citizens. I'm surprised it hasn't been implemented in countries where big charities are also powerful fundraising machines, such as the UK for instance.

In the end, Chilean charity work is a well respected, much-needed complement to poor welfare policy, and I hear few voices questioning the details of the undoubtedly juicy operation. Me, I moan a bit here, but I'll keep donating my change... Only, I am left to wonder how smaller NGOs who aren't flooded with big supermarket money make ends meet. Good luck to them.

Sometimes I wonder if I should be grateful or pissed off.

This post is also available in: French

taxiAt night, most (male) taxi drivers in Santiago wait at the door to check that I get into my house alright before driving off. I thought this was a business decision: in case I've forgotten my keys or something, I may need an extra ride. My girlfriends think it's just to make sure I get home safely. Which is sweet. But mostly unnecessary and slightly patronising - I generally manage the key business alright, thank you very much.

Do they do this for guys? Do they do this in Paris or Athens?

Can you name one famous LIVING Chilean?

This post is also available in: French

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I mean, famous in the rest of the world, and I mean, apart from Michelle of course?

So OK, there's Fernando Gonzalez. He lost to Ferrero in the 3rd round of Wimbledon, but made it to Roland Garros's semi-final and is still #10 in the ATP ranking. Go Fernando.

Speaking of tennis, there's also Marcelo Rios, but he retired years ago, so he doesn't really count.

Chile's new claim to fame is Robinson Tajmuch, a mysteriously-named engineering student who proudly came second in the Mr Universe Model 2009 contest (interview and topless pictures here). He endured armpit waxing and talked about poverty ("we should help the ones who most need it"), but went home with no more reward than his title on a scarf and a cristal trophy.
Pearl of wisdom from the boy: "In these contests, one shouldn't answer what one believes, but rather what the jury wants to hear."
He'll go far.

Anyone else?

Photo by Sebastián Utreras, Paula.cl.

Multilingualism is a Tricky Bitch.


Silvio Rodriguez - Ojalá

The other day, a guitarist transformed my bus journey. He sang this gorgeous Cuban song and all the Chilean passengers were mouthing the words. It was touching and simple; I nearly cried.

La Havana is more than 6000 kms away from Santiago de Chile, but this canción still reaches out throughout the hispanophone world, 40 years after Silvio Rodriguez wrote it.

Is there a timeless song that all the passengers of a European bus could sing along to, from Oslo to Sofia? I mean SING, share and relate to the words - not just hum along to.

Sure, melodies ignore borders and can move any heart, but the European anthem won't really stick with us if it remains a mere La La La. On the other hand, I am obviously all for keeping our rich and diverse cultures and languages thriving and all that - the Eurovision lost about 37% of its charm and interest when the rules change led to pretty much all countries' contestants singing in English.

I'm even prouder to see how far European integration went and goes despite its multilingual hurdle.

Winter sucks, but...

This post is also available in: French

winter.jpg

It's nearly winter in my hemisphere, but I decided to have a positive outlook on meteorological gloom.

1. It's cold in my house. Bonus: when the fridge is full, I can keep the yogurts equally well preserved on the kitchen table.

2. I can finally wear my pretty boots.

3. The sweaty smell in Santiago's metro and buses isn't that bad anymore.

4. It's also cold in bars and restaurants. Bonus: I waste no time taking my coat off, then putting it back on!

5. I eat pumpkin soup and drink creamy hot chocolate.

6. I wear my favourite leopard tights.

7. Hence, I spend less pesos on leg waxing.

8. The ski resorts await me a mere 2 hours from the capital.

9. When it rains or freezes, street sellers mushroom, providing me with umbrellas and warm clothing. It's handy.

10. Winter doesn't last for ever.

Being a Girl in Machoffice.

This post is also available in: French


The 90s business woman in all her brainless glory

My workplace is full of men. Being a girl with two breasts and a generous smile certainly helps me get stuff done quicker. I usually have no problem with it - it is only effective and sustainable because I take my job seriously and get stuff done anyway.

Today I got depressed by a poll commented in the Chilean weekly Qué Pasa. It established that Chilean WOMEN hold deeply machist views. Hence, females are off the job market not only because men and society make it harder for them, but also because women themselves believe they couldn't and SHOULDN'T work and succeed. So if both parents raise their kids to believe Mummy's only right place is at home to cook and groom, we're doomed. (Worryingly, the most educated have the most entrenched conservative opinions, but there's hope - the youngest women surveyed have the most progressive views.)

Am I perpetuating irrelevant and obsolete gender roles by wearing skirts (or picking pink and yellow for my blog template)?
Would my career develop differently if I were more stern?
Should I rule out fondness in the workplace?
Could my attitude harm me and women at large?

Whilst I mull over these questions, I'll share these Chilean blogs (in Spanish). They're girlie fun and hopefully harmless:
Zancada for "all you talk about with your (girl)friends."
Viste La Calle for Chilean street fashion.

Pharmaceutical Sitcom.

This post is also available in: French

ACT 1, SCENE 1

The interior of a Chilean pharmacy of the national chain X. Looks like a small swanky supermarket, adorned with large panels ('30% off antivirals in june only!). Several clients browsing the shelves full of mainstream cosmetics. Five cashiers at the end of the shop.

Enters Piola, she picks up a numbered ticket close to the cashiers, sighs as she realises she's in for a long queue, and explores the make-up removers' section to while away.

Pharmacy assistant A: ...83?

A lady approaches cashier A to pay a pack of nappies, a chocolate ice-cream and cotton pads.

Pharmacy assistant D: 84? ... 85? 86?

An old man approaches cashier D with a scary list of prescriptions.

Pharmacy assistant B: 87? 88?

Piola approaches cashier B.

Piola: Hiya! Could you give me the price of the Soandso pill?

Pharmacy assistant B, typing on her computer: 10.450 pesos.

Piola: How about the two-month treatment?

Pharmacy assistant B: 13.800 pesos.

Piola: Great, then I'll get two months please!

Pharmacy assistant B: Would you like a bottle of mouthwash for only 1.490 pesos?

Piola: No thanks.

Pharmacy assistant B: We also have an astounding offer, 990 pesos for three packs of paracetamol!

Piola: No thanks.

Pharmacy assistant B: Would you like a moisturising body cream for only 1.290 pesos?

Piola: No.

Pharmacy assistant B: OK, so it will be 13.800 pesos. Do you have the pharmacy X loyalty card?

Piola: NO.

Pharmacy assistant B: Would you like to register to obtain the pharmacy X loyalty card?

Piola: No.

Pharmacy assistant B proceeds with the payment and puts the drugs in a plastic bag.

Piola: Thanks, I don't need a bag.

Pharmacy assistant B: Eh?

Piola: I prefer not to have a plastic bag.

Pharmacy assistant B, incredulous: But...?

Piola: It'd be wasted.

Pharmacy assistant B, with an imploring look that seems to say: 'But it's free!": Are you sure?

Piola: Yeah, I'll just put it in my handbag.

Pharmacy assistant B, between contempt and compassion: Ah.

Climate Change at the Other End of the World.

This post is also available in: French

cambio_climatico.jpg

Have a look at James Painter's enlightening piece about the impact of climate change on Chile's agriculture and economy. (For some reason the article got stranded in the BBC's "Europe" section.)

  • It sucks: "Chile's world-famous wines could be particularly vulnerable to the expected changes in the climate."

So much so that large wine companies are starting to buy land further south of their current vineyards... One more valid tasty reason to roll up our sleeves and unplug the laptop's charger.

It's not easy being green here - and it's not hip either. The country's idea of progress and "modernity" seems to lean towards higher buildings, bigger cars and more disposable consumption. On a Sunday, the average family drives to the air-conditioned shopping mall, takes heaps of useless plastic bags home, and does not recycle any of its waste.

  • I knew: Chileans worry about their hydroelectric supplies.

I witnessed that last year when travelling in Chiloe, usually one of the rainiest areas of the country, then struck by a severe drought. Whilst the farmers despaired and the drought caused electricity cuts in the South, back in (traditionally) dry Santiago, everybody kept watering their square of lawn a thousand times a day.

  • I had no bloody idea: "Critics point out that Chile is currently committed to building coal-fired power plants. (...) coal will account for 25% of Chile's electricity supplies by 2020, and emissions will rise fourfold from the current level of 70 million tonnes a year to 300 million by 2030."

Coal...? I mean, COAL?! Can someone explain?

Image: Explora-CONICYT, 2008.

Michelle Bachelet Superstar!

This post is also available in: French

bachelet.jpg

Michelle Bachelet left the Netherlands and is now in France for a short official visit, before a pilgrimage in Chassagne-Montrachet, the village of her French ancestor.

I did admire the Chilean president for her genuine commitment on tricky issues (in particular the distribution of the day-after pill). Yet, despite her faultless CV and her honourable work, I didn't really buy her character - the committed paediatrician, single mum, sensitive and courageous, queen of hearts and blah dee blah.

But then I saw her in the flesh, and succumbed to her radiant charisma.

Continue reading ...

Homesick for Europe**.

This post is also available in: French

sababa.jpg

Chileans often ask me if I miss France. I don't. I miss Europe. I miss big idea(l)s and tiny details. I miss:

  • People. You. My nephews and niece who can't read me.
  • Places. London's South Bank. The Mediterranean Sea. Vienna's MuseumsQuartier. Brussels' Grand-Place. Copenhagen. Greece. The streets of Lisbon. The River Seine.
  • Food. Gorgeous, crunchy, soft bread, especially from Germany or Austria. Organic vegetables. Moroccan tajine. Tasty chinese take-away. Butter chicken from Brick Lane. Falafel from Sababa in der Roternturmstrasse.
  • Trains. All trains. ICEs. TGVs. Thalys. Eurostar. Slow trains, too.
  • Hassle-free border crossing.
  • A (mostly) functional welfare society with a long-term vision. Real public education. A universal healthcare system. Decent pensions.
  • Culture aplenty. More exhibitions and gigs than I can see. Decently-priced books.
  • A frosty Christmas. Christmas makes little sense if you spend it in flip-flops under a palm tree.


** Thank you Indigo Magazine.

Image from the menu of one of Vienna's best addresses, the cheap and delicious Sababa.

The Beauty and the Bleak.

This post is also available in: French

Calama.jpgCalama is grim. They call it the town of Polvo, Perros y Putas (dust, dogs and whores). They have a point. Others nicknamed it Calama Jalama, the City of Snort, because it's bang on the cocaine route down from Bolivia.

You'd expect Calama, "Tierra de Sol y Cobre" (Land of Sun and Copper), to be blooming - not only because of its frontier location (near the Bolivian and Argentinian borders, about 1200 km North from Santiago), and the thriving mining business of the region, but also thanks to the juicy tourism boom in the surrounding Atacama desert.

But no. Nope.

Backpackers merely know Calama airport and drive by on their way to San Pedro de Atacama, the nearby, snug tourist hub; I'm guessing guidebooks will keep Calama off the tourist radar for long years to come.

On a more poetic note, a kid told me Calama is the only city that has four seasons in one day. He did not only mean the place goes from boiling afternoons to freezing nights. He also made me see the place's odd, bleak beauty. For a minute.

I'm leaving soon.

Recipe for household harmony?

This post is also available in: French

dia_mama.pngToday is Mother's day in Chile, like in many European countries.

Expectedly, most retail chains launched large advertising campaigns, inspiring their customers to celebrate this day of familial tenderness with discounted cosmetics, handbags and hair-dryers.

One of this ads caught my attention. It's a cute black-and-white photo of a man and his daughter. Catchphrase: "Hoy Mamá eliges tú" (Mummy, today YOU choose).

Read: Dear Mum, tonight you get to pick if we eat pasta or pizza, but tomorrow Daddy will be holding the reins again?

Buying tampons in Macholandia.

This post is also available in: French

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I am female, so I tend to have my period every now and then. In Chilean Spanish, the phenomenon is described as "enfermarse" - getting sick, as if menstruation was some shameful, painful disease.

Today, I went to buy tampons to cure my cyclical illness. Despite checking several pharmacies and supermarkets, I found prices remain around 0.32 EUR per tampon, whilst French supermarkets sell the same brand for about 0.20 EUR each. 30 cents may not sound that shocking to a European ear, but that's half the price of a bus ride in Santiago. Too much for such an essential item. (Not to mention the scarcity of options on the shelves - one of my friends gets her mum to ship her tampons from Germany, like others ask for their favourite brand of chocolate.)

Tampons are no bloody (no pun intended!) luxury goods. Every woman should have access to cheap, reliable products for her personal hygiene and well-being. Chilean women haven't. Big companies have bigger margins on their products here than on richer countries' markets. Woohoo.

On my way home from menstrual shopping, some elderly man scolded me: "What are you doing here on your own at that time of the day? You should be accompanied." It was 4pm. Bright daylight in a peaceful, leafy neighbourhood.

Maybe the old chap was bored and wanted to chat. Maybe he mistook me for a 7-year-old. Yet, I suspect if I had been wearing a pair of testicles, he wouldn't have worried about my case so much. I was too stunned to ask what the heck he meant. I smiled, because it was absurdly amusing, and walked on.

Yes, Chile elected a woman president - a healthy, strong sign that the country considers women as able as men to run the State. Yes, Chilean men generally treat me respectfully. Yet, subtle, polite examples of daily machismo like these make me raise my eyebrows on a regular basis.

A cheaper tampon could be more helpful than a patronising, 'well-intentioned' offer for protection.

Photo: "Tampon Rain", artwork by Fanni Fazekas, copyright the artist, Museum of Menstruation.

Welcome at Piola's.

This post is also available in: French

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This blog is about life as I see it from the other end of the globe - down in Chile, that narrow strip of land on the Pacific coast. I'll share here what makes me angry, joyful or sad, what surprises me, what makes me pause to think. I hope some meaningful, faithful - if partial - picture of my South American experience will emerge along the way. A personal, necessarily European take on Chilean life; and in turn, a slightly changed perspective on Europe, Europeans and what affects them (us!).

Most of all, I'm hoping to have fun here - throwing words, images and ideas out there, sharing thoughts with you and seeing what happens.

Thank you for embarking on the journey with me.

Image: Americae mappa generalis, August Gottlieb Boehme, 1746, BNF.